Time spent in majestic Maine is cleansing, colorful and awe-inspiring.
It’s a great place for personal renewal and it’s especially fun to discover the state’s natural
resources with loved ones in the fall. Join us as we explore the geology of Downeast Maine in three blogs:
Part I – Addison, Great Wass Island Preserve and Acadia National Park
Part II – Bar Harbor, Maine Maritime Museum (Bath), Harpswell: Bailey Island, Orr’s Island
Part III – “What d’ya Make of It?” Creating jewelry with gems from Downeast Maine
You’ll find these and other geology blogs, along with custom jewelry designs, at www.skinoftheearth.com

PART II: Bar Harbor, Harpswell & Bailey Island,
Maine Maritime Museum (Bath), Orr’s Island

TRAVEL DAY – Bar Harbor to Harpswell

The fairly open-ended plan for the day was to hit up Bar Harbor for some shopping, then continue on to our next home base near Harpswell, Maine.

On the way we stopped for ‘lobstah’ rolls at Charlotte’s Legendary Lobster Pound in Seawall, Southwest Bay. Home | Charlotte’s Legendary Lobster Pound (charlotteslegendarylobsters.com)

This place was like a county fair and culinary circus rolled into one. Where else are you going to get fantastic lobster rolls, chowder, slaw, blueberry pie and more, surrounded by a huge yard with games, a petting zoo and a vintage icehouse shaped like a space capsule? 

Nowhere else, that’s where!

It’s all at Charlotte’s – great food and atmosphere. You might have to wait a bit as lines are to be expected. But it’s worth it. The perfect roadside respite on a travel day. Or any day, really.

FUN FACT & ETYMOLOGY: A ‘Lobster Pound’ is not a unique restaurant name. In fact, a lobster pound is not a restaurant at all. According to ChefResource and other sites, “…it refers to a commercial facility or wholesale market where live lobsters are stored in seawater tanks or pounds before they are shipped off to various destinations.” What is a lobster pound? – Chef’s Resource (chefsresource.com).

The first time the term “lobster pound” was used was on Vinalhaven Island, Maine, in 1875 to describe a method of storing live lobster by running fresh seawater through their storage containers. Shortly after the term was coined, some lobster pound owners added kettles of seawater to boil their lobsters to serve to tourists. The first ever lobster pound was established in Vinalhaven, Maine, in 1876, a town that still has a thriving fishing industry.

With bellies full <urp>, we made our way to Bar Harbor. A happenin’ place, that may be about as touristy as it gets in Maine. It was bustling but not overwhelming. There are tons of shops, artisans, restaurants and beautiful scenery. It’s definitely a good spot for people watching and picking up souvenirs. We all got the requisite T-shirts and some handmade items. I even picked up some locally mined gems:

We also discovered plenty of green spaces, outdoor music venues and photo ops galore. It tallied up to a lot of autumn goodness on our Bar Harbor visit.

With our shopping completed, it was time to get on the road to Harpswell.

Again with the impossibly idyllic views on our drive from Bar Harbor to Harpswell we were never bored. Arriving in Harpswell, we turned off the main road and made our way down a flower-lined side street to our waterfront rental.

The home was situated at the base of a cove on Casco Bay, where working fishing boats moored in the evening and set out early in the morning to make their hauls.

It was inspiring to watch the morning process and something I don’t think I’d ever imagined I would experience in person (because let’s be real, I’m not an early riser). 

To add to the Maine flavor of it all, our street wound down a hill to an actual working wharf/lobster shack at the end of the road. C’mon!

TREK: SCHIST & GIGGLES – Bailey Island

Planning for our next hike meant considering many options around Harpswell and our desired level of physical exertion. Pulling up the area guides, we settled on coastline trails on Bailey Island, with landmarks we couldn’t resist:

• Giant’s Stairs
• McIntosh Lot Preserve (with crumpets), Harpswell Heritage Land Trust
• Land’s End Gift Shop

All this adorned with sparkling piles of schist? Yes, please. Let’s go!

McIntosh Lot Preserve and Giant’s Stairs

We parked at the McIntosh Lot Preserve to start the trail. The Giant’s Stairs Trail is owned and managed by the Town of Harpswell, while Harpswell Heritage Land Trust’s McIntosh Lot Preserve Trail completes the short and easy loop.

On the McIntosh Lot Preserve welcome sign there is a green text box with the following description:
“Whether or not you know anything about rocks, the Giant’s Stairs gives you a sense of the ancient geologic forces that created Harpswell as we know it today. These processes happened hundreds of millions of years ago, as part of huge continental movements that shaped the whole east coast. Most of the rock here is schist, a light gray and flaky metamorphic rock. If you look closely, you can see crystals of minerals such as mica, garnet and quartz. The black and blocky staircase known as the Giant’s Stairs are made of a different kind of rock. This igneous basalt rock formed when magma rose to the surface through a crack in the schist. This magma cooled and eroded over the years to form the staircase we see today. The trail on the McIntosh Lot Preserve leads you to the town-owned Giant’s Stairs Trail, where you can enjoy dramatic views and the Giant’s Stairs themselves.” Giant’s Stairs Trail and McIntosh Lot Preserve – Harpswell Heritage Land Trust (hhltmaine.org)

So cool. Let the stepping commence.

This is an easy hike with spectacular views along the east Casco Bay coastline. It takes 15-20 minutes to complete without stops. It can take a lot longer depending on how often you pause and poke around. We spent quite a bit of time on the shoreline trekking over the beautiful rock formations and taking pictures. A rock lover’s nirvana, this place, as it is at the confluence of multiple geological events over millions of years.

GEOLOGY of BAILEY ISLAND

Bailey Island is geologically fascinating and particularly known for the Giant’s Stairs formation.
“Layers of mud formed the original sedimentary rock, along with deposits of minerals that later crystallized into quartz and garnet.  Movements in the Earth’s crust pushed the rock layers upward, causing massive buckling and cracking.  Gradually, hot magma from deep below the surface flowed into one large crack and formed a vertical seam of dark basalt rock, known to scientists as an “intrusive volcanic dike.”  The formations in this area were created about 200 million years ago during the breakup of the Pangea supercontinent. Erosion of the basalt led to what we now call the Giant’s Stairs.”2.

The Giant Stairs are not only a geological wonder but also a popular spot for marine biology studies, thanks to the diverse life in the tidal pools and intertidal zones

The path is gentle and wide enough to be accessible for a good portion of the trek.

There was more schist to come. But for now, on to Giant’s Stairs.

The Giant’s Stairs

We made it!!
Look at that. As mentioned on the McIntosh Lot signage, these ‘blocks’ have been created and honed only by nature’s forces over millions of years. It was mind boggling to consider the history of what we were standing on, and it was certainly impressive to see.

The rocks described in the lot signage are exactly as stated. Large. Blackened. Clean-edged blocks of magma and sediment that are fairly unique. Wondrous world of ours!

This formation is intriguing and somewhat reminiscent of the Thunder Hole area in Acadia and Cape Perpetua on the Oregon coast. (That’s a whole other blog!)
The visual difference on Bailey Island was that the formation clearly resembled a giant stairway descending into the cool, salty froth. In fact, I could hear the sirens beckoning us to “Come on down!” in a sea maiden-Rod Roddy-kind of voice that was…disconcerting. Or maybe it was just in my head since none of my other travel mates heard the call. Regardless, the pull to dive in was strong. But without our nose plugs we couldn’t take the chance. Plus, Twila didn’t have her right arm water wing, and Greghub wasn’t about to risk rusting out his travel spork. So, nope.

After our visit to the stairway, we finished the hike on the remaining trail. It provided more picturesque scenes, including my cover photo for this blog series:

With the afternoon quickly passing, we finished this side of the trail and headed up to the Land’s End Gift Shop. But the views and schist surrounding the shop grabbed our attention before we even got to the door. Be still, my pulmonary poundings!!
Check this out:

[A note on perspective: When the original statue was unveiled in 1939, there was apparently dissatisfaction with the statute kneeling (not standing) to work the lobster. When I first saw it, I thought the man was tying his boot laces or tickling a squirrel. A closer view brought clarity to the piece for me.]

The model for the statue was Elroy Johnson, from Harpswell. The sculptor was Victor Kahill from Portland, ME. Now known as “The Maine Lobsterman,” the statue has a rich history. Read more about this meaningful work in the following article: Elroy Johnson: Man of the people – The Harpswell Anchor
And the tradition continues:

These sundowner views off the twinkling bay were a poetic ending to this trail. Ah, that infinite horizon.

The only thing left to do was shop. Land’s End Gift Shop, here we come!

Photo from Land’s End Gift Shop FB page
Lands End Gift shop | Bailey Island ME | Facebook
2391 Harpswell Island Rd PO BOX 14, Bailey Island, ME, United States, 04003 Address
(207) 833-2313 Mobile landsendgifts@gmail.com
I’m not seeing a website listed, so head out to their Facebook page and peruse their offerings.
[Point of clarification: This IS NOT an outlet store, nor is it affiliated with any clothing/outdoor gear companies with similar names.]

Souvenir hunters will think they’ve struck the motherlode at this shop. It’s packed with all kinds of local art, apparel, trinkets and tasty morsels. We had a blast and some good yuks with our purchases. Be aware: A lot of time could be spent here shopping, buying and hanging out on the front porch. It truly is at the land’s end!

To sum up our Bailey Island experience: this excursion would be a perfect discovery walk for a family, kids or less ambulatory folks. Besides the fascinating geology, history and ocean views, the fall wildflowers and foliage put on a gorgeous fall display. DO visit Bailey Island if you ever have the chance. It’s certainly memorable and highly recommended!

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Time to head back to get the home fires – and dinner – burning. I mean, we cook and all. We’re just not great at it. Sandwiches for everyone!! Then games and planning for our remaining adventures.

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LEARNING: MAINE MARITIME MUSEUM – Bath, Maine

For fans of nautical history, lighthouses, seafood, or water in general, a trip to the Maine Maritime Museum in Bath is a gift to yourself. Situated on the waterfront of the Kennebec River, the site showcases working historical exhibits in original shipyard buildings, alongside displays of current technology and information. The blend is seamless and fascinating. There are interactive exhibits that engage people of all ages, including many kid-centered activities.
NOTE: This is the only surviving shipyard in the U.S. So, get it on your bucket list and get on out to Bath.

Among the highlights were:

Maritime History Building

This beautiful building houses the main museum with many intriguing exhibits, as well as a gift shop, guest services and rest rooms. This is where you will find information about campus tours and lighthouse cruises from the docks.

The Schooner Wyoming

The campus yard holds a full-size replica of the schooner, Wyoming, the largest wooden sailing vessel ever built in North America. The scale is massive. For perspective note that the humans in the pictures below look like ants under that colossal ship frame.

Lighthouse Experience

This was a beautiful and engaging display. The website describes it very well:

“Into the Lantern: A Lighthouse Experience, a full-scale replication of the Cape Elizabeth Two Lights lighthouse tower lantern room, allows visitors to see the original second-order Fresnel lens from the east tower at Two Lights and experience the environment of the lantern room through time-lapsed video projections featuring a panorama of the Gulf of Maine that changes with the weather and seasons. This immersive exhibit is the first of its kind anywhere.

“The Into the Lantern exhibit at the Maine Maritime Museum is a beautifully designed, immersive experience that does justice to the ‘jewel of the lighthouse,’ the Fresnel lens. These beautiful works of functional art were one of the pinnacles of 19th century technology, and it’s wonderful to see one displayed in such a thoughtful way. I have visited many lens exhibits in many museums, and this is the best I’ve seen.” – Jeremy D’Entremont, author and historian for the American Lighthouse Foundation

My photos of the Fresnel lens:

The Blacksmith Shop

The campus has a full blacksmith shop with a blacksmith that happened to be onsite the day we were there. He talked with visitors and discussed vintage pieces that were hand forged, poured, or machine made. As a metalsmith/jewelry designer, this was a highlight for me. The blacksmith even gave me a nail he’d personally forged! 🙂

Boat Shop and Historic Small Craft Buildings

The Small Craft Building is a watercraft museum and restoration building that would spin up any and all boat lovers. It houses outstanding examples of manmade watercraft and restoration processes. It was so mesmerizing I forgot to take pictures.

Lobstering & The Maine Coast Building

The lobstering building contains fascinating artifacts and information related to the Maine lobstering industry, fishing and boating:

A Coast of Buoys – Designated buoy shapes and colors along the Maine coastline.
Navigational buoys use different colors and shapes to convey information to mariners:

Red Buoys: Mark the right side of a channel when returning from the open sea. 
They’re usually paired with even numbers.

Green Buoys: Mark the left side of a channel when returning from the open sea. 
They have odd numbers.

Yellow Buoys: Indicate special areas or features, such as a fishing area or pipelines.

White Buoys: Used for safe water markers or for regulatory purposes, like speed limits 
or no-wake zones.

Black Buoys: Sometimes used in inland waters to mark specific points.

Orange Buoys: Used for informational or regulatory markings, including warnings 
or guidance.

The size and shape of a buoy are just as important as its color helping sailors recognize the buoy’s purpose even from a distance.

Can Buoys: These are cylindrical-shaped buoys that are green. 
They mark the left side of the channel when you’re returning from the open sea.

Nun Buoys: These cone-shaped buoys are red and mark the right side of the channel 
when you’re returning from the sea.

Spherical Buoys: Usually white with red vertical stripes, indicating safe water all around. 
You can pass them on either side.

Pillar Buoys: Typically taller and skinnier than other buoys, often used for navigational 
aids like lights and sound signals.

Spar Buoys: Long, slender buoys that can be various colors, often used in 
rivers and lakes.

Routes to Market for Maine Lobster – Chart

This museum provides such an important look into the history and heart of Maine. It is really a song to the sea life. The displays are one-of-a-kind and so well maintained. We also encountered friendly staff throughout the museum and grounds. They were very knowledgeable and excited to share information about the exhibits. For more information on all the exhibits and history go to: www.mainemaritimemuseum.org

This was the perfect rainy-day outing for us. We all like museums, and the curated displays provided something for everyone. This would also be great for a sunny day exploration – especially with that riverbank setting. Bring your lunch totes and have a seat at the waterside picnic table.
Whatever you do, don’t miss this museum! Very impressive.

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TREK: Orr’s Island

As we neared the end of our stay in Harpswell, we realized we had taken a lot of side trips and excursions, but we hadn’t spent much time on Orr’s Island. So, logistician, Twila, found us a nifty little trail called ‘Devil’s Back Trail,’ that turned out to be one of my favorite treks. There is an east and a west trail and both can be accessed right off the main road. You literally park your car in an on-street lot and descend a few yards into another world. We chose the more forested East Trail. It was a fairly gentle path through the forest and along the cove that showcased magnificent varieties of fungi, quartz formations, moss and a few oddities. Perfection! It was a beautiful day for a hike on Orr’s Island.
Devil’s Back Trail – 143 Reviews, Map | AllTrails

This is listed as another ‘easy’ trail that can be completed in about 30 minutes non-stop. But, again, we’re stop-and-look-ers. It was so enjoyable! I know a lot of you readers are also fungi fanatics. Feast your eyes on this bevvy of beauties.

It was the perfect time of year to see these mycorrhizal fruits in full force. Gorgeous.

What about the quartz and moss, you might ask? Well, the likes of these formations were present throughout the hike with a high shimmer quotient. Talk about your healing properties! If you’re into the spiritual qualities of earthen goods, this would be a wonderful place to pop in your Nuk and just lay down for a couple of hours. Or days.

And like many memorable hikes, this one presented some oddities for deep consideration and chuckles. Your comments are welcomed.

There was much more to see here, but I’ll leave it to your imaginations. As one person described it, “Enchanting!” Concur. You would be fully refreshed after hiking through this fairyland escape. Go get your mental reset on at the “Devil’s Back Trail.” NOTE: The west trail apparently has great views of the ocean side. Check that out, too!!

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ON THE WATER: Sailing into the Sunset

It was agreed that the best way to wrap up this Maine odyssey was to embark on an autumn sailing adventure on the Schooner Alert! We could not have picked a more radiant day to make a farewell trip around sparkling Casco Bay. The Schooner ALERT is one of the ships owned and captained by second-generation family couple Bethany and Perry. They are native to Bailey Island and were superb guides for this trip.

Cribstone Bridge

One of the coolest parts of this sail for me was the great view and architectural history of the Bailey Island bridge, or ‘Cribstone Bridge.’ Built in 1928, it connects Orr’s Island to Bailey Island by road, something that was not possible prior to its construction due to the huge daily tidal changes.
The bridge is constructed entirely of LOCAL GRANITE and relies on gravity to keep the stones secured in place. The open work construction allows the tide waters to pass through the bridge, rather than contain it. If that sounds unbelievable, you’re right! It is an engineering marvel and an incredibly functional use of stone (imho)! It has been awarded a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark designation and is certainly unique in its structure.

This work is completely captivating from an engineering and imagination standpoint. It really gets the creative juices flowing. Well done, Edwards et al, 1928.
It goes without saying that this site should be on your ‘Must See’ list. Learn more about everything Harpswell at: Harpswell, Maine
NOTE: Massive storms hit the Harpswell coast last winter and greatly impacted the fishing industry. Here’s to swift recovery of their resources and livelihood.

We ended our voyage at the loading dock and Cook’s Lobster & Ale House. This is a legendary restaurant right on the water with great outdoor seating, indoor seating and incredible food. We ordered a massive takeout meal and packed ‘er up to bring home. Get this place on your ‘Must Chow Here’ list, as well.
– For more information on the Schooner ALERT! excursions and accommodations: Sailing Charters – Sea Escape Bailey Island, Maine. Schooner ALERT charters (seaescapecottages.com)
– For more information on Cook’s Lobster & Ale House: Cook’s Lobster & Ale House (cookslobster.com)

With one final Maine sunset it was time to eat, clean and pack up for the next leg of our journey. Some of us were moving on to Massachusetts. Others were traveling back to Minnesota. But before we headed out, two critical tasks remained:

Gregbro got in one final sunset kayak trek before our departure.
The rest of us (mostly Twila) finished our Maine Landmarks jigsaw puzzle. It’s hard to gauge the puzzle size from the pic, but it took up much of the dining room table. Of course, there is one (one!) missing piece from this puzzle. But then again, aren’t most of us missing a piece or two? On we go…

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Piecing it all Together

Suffice it to say this was an epic and energizing trip that left us wanting more. We hope to be back to Maine somewhere along the way. If so, I’ll bring you more tales from the Maine trails.

The next day dawned and it was time to head to the Portland airport. Thankfully, a gift shop was located right next to our gate. I needed to purchase one last, deeply meaningful T-shirt to put a bow on this trip:

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What’s Next??

We’ll move ahead to the ‘molten metal’ phase to create from what was collected. I’ll showcase jewelry designs featuring some rocks and gems found in Maine. You’ll definitely want to login for the final installment of this blog series: Downeast Maine: Part III: What D’ya Make of It?

Follow Along

Thanks for trekking along with us. If you’re inspired by this content, be sure to like and follow at https://www.skinoftheearth.com
Also, use the Comments section below to share your own experiences or feedback.
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Email: nancy@skinoftheearth.com
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Ahoy, Aho and on we go!
-Nancy